LATITUDE
LONGITUDE
APPELATIONS
Think of wine regions as neighbourhoods: some are the flashy penthouse dwellers everyone knows, while others are the intriguing basement artists creating masterpieces in obscurity. Cesanese di Affile DOC is the latter category's crown jewel. This isn't your typical wine story. It's a tale of resurrection, volcanic soils, and a grape that once charmed Roman emperors but nearly vanished into historical footnotes. Cesanese is an ancient grape variety originating in Italy, particularly in the vicinity of Rome, which lends it historical significance. Today, Cesanese is increasingly appreciated by critics and sommeliers as a unique red grape variety.
We're diving deep into this fascinating appellation that sits like a hidden speakeasy in Lazio's mountainous terrain, producing wines that would make even the most jaded sommelier raise an eyebrow. From the ancient terroir that birthed civilizations to the modern winemakers reviving forgotten traditions, this comprehensive guide unpacks everything you need to know about one of Italy's most intriguing wine regions.
The Cesanese di Affile DOC occupies a prime position in the province of Rome, approximately 50 kilometres east of the Eternal City. This mountainous appellation sits at the confluence of the Ernici and Simbruini mountain ranges, creating a natural amphitheatre that would make ancient Roman architects weep with envy. Cesanese di Affile is a distinct sub-variety of Cesanese Comune, unique to the commune of Affile, which further adds to its regional significance. The cluster of Cesanese di Affile is medium-sized and moderately compact, a feature that contributes to its unique winemaking potential.
The region's elevation ranges dramatically from 300 to 900 meters above sea level (984 to 2,953 feet), with most vineyards situated between 450 and 500 meters (1,476 and 1,640 feet). This altitude is crucial: it's high enough to provide the diurnal temperature variations that make Cesanese sing, but not so high that the grapes can't ripen properly.
Lazio's soil and climate are conducive to viticulture but have historically been associated with low-quality production, making the resurgence of Cesanese di Affile even more remarkable. The region is better known for its diverse range of grape varieties and styles rather than famous winemaking names like Chianti or Brunello.
Winemaking has a long history in Cesanese di Affile. The name itself tells the tale: "Cesae" derives from the Latin word meaning "place of cut trees". This is where Roman settlers cleared forests to plant vineyards.
Ancient Romans weren't just building roads and conquering territories; they were cultivating what would become one of Lazio's most distinctive wines. The grape earned its stripes early, becoming a favourite among Popes and Emperors who recognized its superior quality compared to other local varieties. Lazio has a rich wine history that dates back over two millennia, with Cesanese playing a significant role in its legacy. This viticultural heritage also includes contributions from the Etruscans and the Romans, who laid the foundation for the region's winemaking traditions.
The golden age came in the 1930s, when Cesanese di Affile wines swept international competitions, earning gold medals in Paris and Brussels. Then came the dramatic plot twist: near extinction. By the mid-20th century, urbanization and agricultural shifts had reduced this once-celebrated variety to virtual obscurity. However, this also marked a turning point: more winemakers began producing dry wines from this variety, focusing on showcasing its freshness. Historically, the wines of Lazio were produced in large quantities, often prioritizing quantity over quality, but Cesanese di Affile has emerged as a symbol of the region's potential for excellence.
The resurrection began in 2003 with the establishment of Colline di Affile, which had a mission to revive the ancient grape. The watershed moment came in 2004, when they produced the first commercial bottle of Cesanese di Affile DOC, a gap of over 30 years since the denomination was established in 1973. In recent years, the region has raised its reputation to become one of the most sought-after hidden gems in Lazio.
Vineyard Hectares
WINERIES
GROWING DEGREE DAYS
Cesanese di Affile DOC is nestled in central-western Italy within the Lazio region, specifically surrounding the commune of Affile in the province of Rome. This landscape is characterized by rolling Apennine foothills, with vineyards primarily located between 200 and 400 meters above sea level on gentle, south- and southwest-facing slopes. Its historic home is southeast of the Castelli Romani, placing it well inland and away from the moderating effects of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Frascati is a white wine made from the Malvasia grape, contrasting with the red Cesanese di Affile.
The DOC experiences a continental Mediterranean climate, characterized by hot, dry summers with notable diurnal temperature swings, due to its altitude and distance from the coast. The variation between day and night temperatures helps grapes retain acidity while developing complexity and aromatic intensity. These conditions make Cesanese di Affile a late-ripening variety, with harvest typically occurring in the first half of October as the grapes strive to achieve full physiological maturity.
Soils in the Cesanese di Affile DOC result primarily from pyroclastic (volcanic) deposits, layered over calcareous clays and limestones. These well-draining, mineral-rich soils both challenge and reward growers. The volcanic origin gives the wines distinctive minerality and structure. At the same time, the mixture of limestone and clay helps regulate water supply: an essential advantage for late-ripening varieties in this ancient, highland terrain.
Within this DOC, the main grape varieties allowed are part of the Cesanese family (also known as Cesanese Nero or Nero Ferrigno): Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune. Wine labelled as Cesanese di Affile must have at least 90% of the grape. Cesanese Comune is grown primarily in the Lazio region of Italy, further highlighting the area's commitment to this historic grape variety.
The distinction between Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune, also used in appellations such as Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, is crucial. Think of them as siblings with distinct personalities. Cesanese di Affile features smaller berries, more concentrated flavours, and superior aging potential, while Cesanese Comune offers more immediate appeal but less complexity. Additionally, Cesanese di Affile grapes have smaller leaves and bluish-black berries compared to Cesanese Comune, further distinguishing the two. The d'Affile strain of Cesanese is preferred and is gaining popularity over the Comune strain in recent winemaking due to its superior qualities. The best Cesanese wines should be aged for several years to reveal their full character.
Besides these grapes, the DOC regulations permit the addition of up to 10% of complementary grape varieties suitable for Lazio cultivation, such as Cesanese Comune, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Barbera, and Bombino Bianco. However, despite this, most producers focus on 100% Cesanese di Affile expressions to showcase the grape's unique terroir. The wines produced from Cesanese di Affile are generally more complex and long-lived than those from other Cesanese varieties, making them a standout choice for enthusiasts.
Wines produced in this region are most commonly dry still wines, though historical traditions included sweet and sparkling versions that paired with fruit desserts and pastries. These wines may have a slight bitter edge and tend to be medium or light-bodied. Cesanese di Affile wines pair well with grilled or roasted meat, pasta dishes, and stews, making them a versatile option for various culinary experiences. Wines produced from Cesanese di Affile have good structure and are complemented by notes of ripe fruit and spices. Cesanese wines are typically dry, fruity, and have soft tannins, enhancing their appeal to a wide range of palates.
Modern winemaking focuses on terroir expression through minimal intervention techniques. In addition, more and more winemakers are employing indigenous yeasts and avoiding excessive oak influence to let the volcanic minerality shine through. Cesanese wines prefer little to no oak aging and are best consumed young, allowing their fresh and vibrant characteristics to take center stage. Cesanese wines are described as dry and fruity with distinctive aromas.
Cesanese di Affile is the gastronomic equivalent of a Swiss Army knife: versatile yet distinctive. The wine's herbal-tinged flavour profile and moderate tannins make it remarkably food-friendly.
Classic Roman Pairings
Versatile Modern Pairings
The wine even works with a slight chill for summer drinking, making it perfect for al fresco dining.
The Cesanese wine route begins in Affile, the first stop along a journey through the provinces of Rome and Frosinone. The village itself is a time capsule, featuring polygonal Roman walls, medieval architecture, and the fascinating Grotte di Pertuso – natural underground tunnels that change with the seasons.
Wine tourism here isn't about sprawling estates or Instagram-worthy tasting rooms. It's about authenticity and stories. Visitors can explore cellars carved directly into volcanic rock, meet multigenerational winemaking families, and experience the intimate scale of production that makes each bottle feel personal.
The surrounding area offers hiking trails to Monte Affiliano (1,150 meters), the Monti Simbruini Regional Park, and the historic Benedictine Monasteries of Subiaco, creating a perfect blend of wine, nature, and culture.
Their 3-hectare estate, situated above 450 meters, produces approximately 10,000 bottles annually.
Located in the Farinella locality of Affile, the winery focuses on controlled production to maintain quality over quantity.
Italian wine has embraced sustainability with the fervour of a religious conversion, and Cesanese di Affile producers are no exception. The EQUALITAS certification program provides the framework for sustainable practices across environmental, social, and economic dimensions. Cesanese di Affile is listed in the Catalogo Nazionale delle Varietà di Vite since 1970, underscoring its importance in Italy's viticultural heritage. The Lazio region features over 25 DOCs and three DOCG appellations, highlighting its diverse and rich winemaking landscape.
Producers focus on worker rights, training programs, and community engagement. The cooperative model of Colline di Affile exemplifies this approach, bringing together diverse stakeholders to preserve both the wine tradition and the social fabric of the territory.
The small-scale, artisanal production model inherently supports sustainability by reducing industrial impacts while maintaining economic viability for local communities. Each bottle represents not just wine, but the preservation of cultural heritage, landscape, and traditional knowledge systems that have evolved over millennia.
This isn't just about making wine; it's about maintaining a living connection to the land that has sustained communities since Roman times, ensuring that future generations can continue to taste history in every glass of Cesanese di Affile DOC.
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