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Like finding a Michelin-starred restaurant in a strip mall, this DOC sits just 75 kilometres from Rome’s chaos, producing wines that would make Burgundian vignerons weep with envy. Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC is considered one of Lazio’s most important red wines, showcasing the region’s potential on the global stage.
The region is home to ancient origins and traditions, with Cesanese di Olevano Romano showcasing unique grape varieties and local customs that reflect its deep-rooted heritage. Cesanese has emerged from anonymity and is now regarded as the symbol of red wine in Lazio.
Agriculture has played a crucial role in shaping the region’s wine identity and economic development, with generations of local families working the land and preserving the area’s traditions.
This in-depth guide covers the rich history, unique terroir, grape varieties, wine styles, and notable producers of the Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC. It also explores the region’s climate, sustainable practices, and food pairings, providing a comprehensive overview for wine enthusiasts and curious travellers alike.
Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC is located on the southeastern hillsides of Rome’s province, centred around the communes of Olevano Romano and parts of Genazzano. These municipalities form the base of Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC's identity and grape cultivation, serving as the foundational area for this wine's historic and geographical significance. The growing region for Cesanese di Olevano Romano is located in the hills around Olevano Romano and parts of Genazzano in Rome.
The region sits in Lazio’s hilly terrain, characterized by steep Roman hillsides that demand manual labour and old-school grit. These aren’t the rolling, Instagram-friendly vineyards; this is serenely surrounding, altitude-driven viticulture that separates the province of the wheat from the chaff. It typically has a medium body and softer, more approachable tannins compared to more robust wines, such as Aglianico.
The numbers tell a story of precision over volume. With summer temperatures hitting 27-31°C (81-88°F) and excellent diurnal temperature variation at elevation, this region punches above its weight class climatically. This wine can exhibit a deep ruby red colour, which deepens to garnet as it ages.
The Cesanese name likely derives from caesae, the Latin term for “places of cut trees,” referring to the deforested hillsides where Roman soldiers planted vines after completing their military service. The flavour profile of Cesanese di Olevano Romano features aromas of cherry, red berries, and floral notes, complemented by earthy and spicy undertones.
Emperors Nero, Nerva, and Trajan didn’t just visit these hills; they claimed Cesanese as one of their favourite wines and built villas in the area. By the medieval period, every cellar worth its salt had Cesanese supplies, attracting popes, cardinals, and nobility. Legend has it that even Caravaggio became a convert while hiding out in the nearby town of Paliano.
The first official documentation dates to 1600, but the grape’s decline began in the 19th and 20th centuries. By 2000, less than 1,000 hectares remained across all of Italy: a cautionary tale of urbanization and agricultural abandonment. However, 2025 marked a renaissance with the establishment of the Consortium for the Protection of Cesanese di Olevano Romano, led by President Marco Antonelli. Recent years have seen a recovery of vineyards and the arrival of new generations of winemakers in Lazio. This revival is due in large part to the hard work and dedication of local growers, who perform much of the vineyard and cellar work by hand to restore and maintain tradition.
Today, this consortium works diligently to restore the attention that the Cesanese grape has earned over time, focusing on the refinement of winemaking techniques, including careful maturation and aging, while addressing concerns about effective coordination and promotion with existing organizations.
Vineyard Hectares
WINERIES
GROWING DEGREE DAYS
The DOC sits in a natural amphitheatre formation, similar to Chianti Classico's Conca d'Oro but at a higher elevation. The southeastern exposure captures maximum sunlight while mountain influences provide cooling effects. Cesanese di Olevano Romano can encompass several styles, including Rosso, Superiore, and Riserva.
This is a Mediterranean climate with a serious altitude attitude. Hot, dry summers (with only 10-20mm of monthly rainfall) contrast with wet autumns and winters. The key differentiator is the diurnal temperature variation. The vineyards, situated at 450-meter elevations, are engulfed in the kind of day-night temperature swings that build complexity into the grapes.
The terroir's secret weapon is its deep red volcanic soil, courtesy of the ancient Vulcano Laziale (now Castel Gandolfo's crater lake). When this volcano last erupted, lava flows reached precisely this DOC area, creating unique mineral compositions that other Cesanese regions lack. The result? Volcanic hills rich in potassium provide both drainage and the minerality that gives these wines their distinctive character. The wine is characterized by its ruby red colour and notes of wild berries, violets, and spices.
The main red grapes from this DOC are Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune, both of which are also present in other areas, such as Cesanese del Piglio DOCG. Cesanese Comune is a red Italian wine grape variety primarily grown in the Lazio region.
The DOC regulations require a minimum of 85% Cesanese for standard wines and 90% for the Superiore designation. Both Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune are used in winemaking in Lazio, with specific percentages required for different DOC classifications. Cesanese di Affile is considered the premium clone, offering more finesse and aging potential than its Comune cousin.
The modern trend has shifted dramatically from traditional sweet and sparkling styles toward dry, structured wines that showcase terroir. Historically, Cesanese was produced in sweet or sparkling styles and consumed locally at festivals and special occasions. This pivot reflects both market demands and winemaker recognition of Cesanese's serious potential.
Cesanese's versatility rivals a Swiss Army knife. It's the red wine equivalent of that friend who's equally comfortable at a dive bar or charity gala. The grape's moderate tannins and medium-plus body make it incredibly food-friendly.
The wine's inherent earthiness and subtle spice notes create bridges between rustic Roman cuisine and contemporary dining. Pro tip: the slight bitterness on the finish (that beautiful Italian amaro quality) makes it exceptional with rich, fatty meats.
The region offers something that most wine destinations can't: authentic, unspoiled experiences free from tourist bus crowds. Visiting these estates feels like discovering a secret society of wine obsessives working in volcanic soil laboratories.
Key experiences include vineyard walks through ancient amphitheatre formations, tastings in century-old cellars, and witnessing hand-harvesting on impossibly steep slopes. The proximity to Rome (75km) makes it perfect for day trips, while the medieval village of Olevano Romano provides Instagram-worthy backdrops without the Tuscan tourist taxes.
The undisputed king of Cesanese, Ciolli transformed his family’s bulk wine operation into a quality-focused estate in 2001. After travelling and studying across Europe, he drew inspiration from European vineyards and winemaking traditions, which influenced his winemaking philosophy and techniques. Working 7 hectares at 450 meters elevation with partner Letizia Rocchi (PhD in grapevine physiology), they produce 24,000 bottles annually from some of the region’s oldest vines—including a 65-year-old Cesanese di Affile vineyard planted by Damiano’s grandfather. Their flagship Cirsium Riserva represents the pinnacle of what this grape can achieve. The new consortium aims to protect the PDO designation of Cesanese di Olevano Romano and promote the wine domestically and internationally.
Run by longtime friends Silvestro Colli and Mariano Mampieri, along with their daughters, this 3-hectare boutique operation proves that size doesn't matter when passion drives quality. Their non-certified organic, hand-harvested approach produces just 5,000 bottles of their Superiore—a testament to low-yield, high-quality philosophy. The volcanic-clay soil mix creates wines with firm, dusty tannins and remarkable longevity.
Third-generation farmer Marco Antonelli represents the new wave of Cesanese producers. Converting to organic viticulture in 2014 with enologist Vincenzo Mercurio, Antonelli farms 4 hectares of old vines between 300-400 meters elevation. His approach embraces both tradition and innovation, with some vineyards featuring mixed red and white plantings in “anarchic” arrangements that represent local historical practices. Alberto Giacobbe, as vice-president of the new protection consortium, also plays a significant role in promoting and safeguarding Cesanese di Olevano Romano.
The Cesanese di Olevano Romano region is undergoing a sustainability revolution that would even make the most cynical climate activist smile. Leading producers have embraced organic and biodynamic practices not as marketing gimmicks, but as a necessary evolution.
Key Sustainable Practices:
The region's natural advantages, volcanic soils that require less fertilization, elevation that reduces disease pressure, and traditional hand-harvesting practices align perfectly with sustainable approaches. These aren't wineries retrofitting green practices; they're operations where sustainability flows naturally from terroir and tradition.
The establishment of the 2025 consortium signals a coordinated commitment to quality and environmental stewardship, positioning Cesanese di Olevano Romano as a model for sustainable viticulture in central Italy. In a world where authenticity often gets lost in corporate speak, this region delivers the real deal: wines that taste like they come from a specific place, made by people who genuinely care about that place, one that lasts for future generations.
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